San Antonio in Good Taste
By Gerald Lair
Posted 10/30/07
When Will Rogers included San Antonio in his list of “Four Unique Cities,” it is unlikely he was thinking about our food. But as any resident will soon discover, San Antonio is unique precisely because of its many flavors. We’ve stirred up our richly diverse cultural mix of German, Spanish, Alsatian, Mexican and French, tossed in a history of “cowboys” and ‘home on the range,’ and we proudly serve them up as a local “cuisine” that is imitated the world over, but is seldom done as well as its roots.
In case you haven’t heard, the quickest and most intimate peek at the heart and soul of any place is through its’ kitchen door. And the Alamo City is no exception. Beware though; in San Antonio the prevailing ‘Latin’ and ‘cowboy’ vibes may lull you. Could one be blamed for eating only tacos during, say, a weekend? Hardly. Will you ever only want ‘big beef?’ Unless you’re a confirmed Vegan, of course you will. Actually, we’d be sad if you didn’t succumb to the seductions of our spectacular beef, amazing array of Mexican delights, smoky succulent barbecued meats, and perfect Margaritas. These should never be spurned, but please, save room for the unexpected.
Co-existing happily here with Texas and Mexican foods are: Le Reve, the best French restaurant in the state, Van’s, a pan-Asian restaurant with a wine list to die for, Bistro Vatel, cozy ambience and European kitchen classics, Silo Elevated Cuisine, for cutting edge food in contemporary surroundings, and the variety of ethnic restaurants you’d wish for in a city our over a million. Whether your taste buds are simple or sophisticated, you’re sure to be seduced by our city’s copious culinary charms. Here’s a native’s take on where to find some of San Antonio’s best bites.
Known for their authentic Mexican cuisines are: Taqueria No Que No, Guajillos, Aldacos’s, Paloma Blanca, and La Calesa. Rosario’s, in the historic and trendy King William neighborhood, is always crowded and Saturdays, soups at El Mirador are sublime and usually sold out before the dinner hour.
Categorize as one will, sometimes you’ll find the platonic version of a dish where it’s least anticipated. The best guacamole in the city for instance, is prepared tableside at Boudro’s on the River Walk, where Texas food shines.
More Tex-Mex, but no less yummy, are: Taco Haven, Panchito’s and Cristan’s where breakfast tacos (usually made with wheat flour tortillas and filled with a dizzying assortment of toothsome fillings) rule. Enjoy hearty egg-y morning repasts? Try migas, huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, or machacado. You’ll be happy you did. At lunch, these same spots offer quintessential “Mexican plates.” Usually designated by a number on the menu, myriad assortments may include: enchiladas with chili gravy, onion, and oozes of melted yellow chesse, chalupas, fajitas, crispy or, better yet, “puffy” tacos, maybe a tamale, a dollop of guacamole, and always, rice and beans. La Fogata and Los Barrios are all around winners in this category, where institutions abound.
Speaking of local culinary legends…for barbecue, and other ‘Texas Size’ meats, seek out any of Bob’s Barbecue locations. For many years, the original site sported a sign that read: “Where there’s no smoke, there’s no barbecue.” Who could resist? The County Line, Rudy’s Country Store and Barbecue Station also have masses of fans.
Superb steaks reign supreme at Morton’s, The Palm, Ruth’s Chris, Little Rhein and The Barn Door. None will disappoint.
At Chris Madrid’s, a ‘Cheddar Cheezy,’ loaded please, with fries, is the attraction for multitudes that keep finding excuses to “Eat the Macho.” Yes, it’s huge. Yes, it’s the paradigm burger, but there are also great ones at Casbeers, Chester’s and Cheesy Jane’s. It’s Tip Top Café for chicken fried steak. The same caring cooks, the same kitschy décor, and the same stellar way with anything fried, for over 40 years now. Liberty Bar, the locally anointed ‘temple to Texas tastes’ enjoys a Bohemian reputation for the building’s disregard for equilibrium. It’s their serious way with food however, and not the tilt, that one remembers. Get acquainted with Chiles en Nogada, or Goat Cheese with Chile Morita and Piloncillo, or just about any of the fabulous and quirky items on their ever-changing menu.
Standouts for ‘fine dining’ along the River Walk are the aforementioned Boudro’s, Las Canarias in the La Mansion Hotel, Paesano’s, and Biga on the Banks, where Chef Bruce Auden presides over a ‘way cool’ showcase for imaginative San Antonio cuisine that never fails to tempt. In addition, magical cityscape views transform the place after sunset. Just steps away is, of course, local Chef Andrew Weisman’s justly touted Le Reve.
Spare moments? Sip fine ‘bubbly’ at S.A.’s version of a big city watering hole, Zinc Champagne and Wine Bar. Check out The Esquire Bar, where you can have a long neck, along with a bit of history. And enjoy a fruit flavored “raspa” (snow cone), al fresco, while admiring the Alamo’s façade.
Oh, by the way, traffic is not yet a problem in San Antonio, so fulfillment of any foodie fantasy is just a short commute away.
